Pearls are unlike any other gem. They're organic, formed inside a living creature, made of layer upon layer of nacre that gives them their ethereal glow. This organic nature is what makes them beautiful, and also what makes them vulnerable. Pearls require specific care that's different from caring for metal or stone jewelry.
The good news: pearl care isn't complicated. It's just different. Once you understand why pearls are sensitive and what to avoid, maintaining their beauty becomes second nature. This guide covers everything, from daily habits to deep cleaning to long-term storage.
Why pearls need special care
Pearls rank 2.5-4.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, softer than glass, softer than a kitchen knife, softer than most other gems. For context, diamonds are 10, sapphires are 9, and quartz (the mineral in household dust) is 7. This means pearls can be scratched by contact with harder materials, including other jewelry.
Beyond hardness, pearls are porous. They absorb liquids, oils, and chemicals through their nacre surface. Perfume, hairspray, and cosmetics don't just sit on the surface, they penetrate the nacre and break it down from within. This absorption is gradual and cumulative, which is why pearls that aren't cared for lose their luster over years.
Daily pearl care habits
The 'last on, first off' rule, especially for pearls
This rule applies to all jewelry, but it's critical for pearls. Apply all cosmetics, perfume, hairspray, and sunscreen before putting on pearl jewelry. Wait at least 30 seconds after spraying perfume before adding pearls, the alcohol in perfume is particularly damaging to nacre.
At the end of the day, pearls come off first, before you start your evening skincare routine, before you wash your hands, before anything else.
Wipe after every wear
After each wear, gently wipe your pearls with a soft, slightly damp cloth. Not wet, damp. This removes body oils, traces of perfume, and environmental residue before they have time to penetrate the nacre. Use a lint-free cloth, microfiber works perfectly.
This 10-second habit is the single most effective pearl care practice. Women who wipe after wearing find their pearls maintain luster years longer than those who don't.
Deep cleaning pearls: step by step
Every 3-4 months (or monthly for heavily worn pieces), give your pearls a more thorough cleaning:
Step 1: Prepare a bowl of lukewarm water, not hot, not cold. Lukewarm only. Do not add soap to the water. Step 2: Dampen a soft cloth in the water. Wring it out so it's damp, not dripping. Step 3: Gently wipe each pearl individually. For necklaces, work pearl by pearl along the strand. Step 4: For stubborn residue only: add one drop of mild, pH-neutral soap to the damp cloth and wipe the affected area. Rinse the cloth, dampen again with clean water, and wipe off the soap residue. Step 5: Lay the pearls flat on a clean, dry soft cloth. Never hang pearl necklaces to dry, the thread absorbs water and the weight of the pearls can stretch it. Step 6: Let air dry completely, at least 24 hours for strung pearls, before storing.
What never to use on pearls
Ultrasonic cleaners: the vibrations can crack nacre and loosen settings. Steam cleaners: heat and moisture damage pearls. Ammonia-based cleaners: break down nacre rapidly. Commercial jewelry dips: formulated for metals and stones, too harsh for organic gems. Toothpaste: abrasive enough to scratch the nacre surface. Vinegar or lemon juice: the acid dissolves nacre (pearls are calcium carbonate). Rubbing alcohol: dehydrates the nacre, causing cracking.
Storing pearls properly
How you store pearls matters as much as how you clean them.
Store separately: pearls scratch easily. Never store them in a jewelry box touching metal pieces, gemstones, or other pearls without protection. Use individual soft pouches, cotton or silk, never plastic. Plastic traps moisture and can release chemicals that damage nacre.
Avoid airtight containers: unlike metal jewelry that benefits from minimal air exposure, pearls actually need a small amount of humidity. Completely sealed containers can cause pearls to dry out and crack over time. A fabric pouch inside a jewelry box is ideal, breathable but protected.
Keep them flat: pearl necklaces should be stored flat, never hanging. Hanging strains the thread and can stretch or weaken it over time.
Temperature matters: avoid extreme heat and cold. Don't store pearls near heating vents, in direct sunlight, or in unheated spaces during winter.
Pearl restringing: when and why
Pearl necklaces and bracelets on silk thread should be professionally restrung every 1-2 years with regular wear. The silk absorbs body oils and stretches over time, which can lead to gaps between pearls and, eventually, breakage.
Signs it's time to restring: visible gaps between pearls, fraying or discolored silk thread, the strand feels loose or stretchy, any knot looks weak or damaged. A local jeweler can restring a pearl necklace for $30-80 depending on length. It's a worthwhile investment to prevent losing pearls from a broken strand.
Frequently asked questions
How do you clean pearl jewelry at home?
Wipe pearls with a soft, slightly damp cloth after each wear. For deeper cleaning every 3-4 months, dampen a cloth with lukewarm water and gently wipe each pearl individually. For stubborn residue, add one drop of mild soap to the cloth. Never soak pearls in water, use ultrasonic cleaners, or apply commercial jewelry cleaning solutions.
Can you get pearls wet?
Brief accidental water exposure won't damage pearls, but prolonged soaking or swimming with pearls should be avoided. Pearls are porous and absorb liquids, which can damage the nacre over time. If pearls get wet, pat dry immediately and lay flat to dry completely before storing.
How should you store pearl jewelry?
Store pearl jewelry in individual soft fabric pouches (cotton or silk, never plastic) inside a jewelry box. Keep them flat, never hang pearl necklaces. Avoid airtight containers, as pearls need some humidity to prevent cracking. Store away from direct heat, sunlight, and other jewelry that could scratch the nacre.